heritage

ART + CULTURE

Palazzo Budini Gattai: Waiting for love

Palazzo Grifoni Budini Gattai stands on a corner of the Santissima Annunziata square. And there's an incredible love story behind the partially open shutter.

ART + CULTURE

Gatecrashing: Florence’s old gates

My family have a framed map of Florence in the bathroom. I think my Dad gave it to me a few years ago, and I gratefully gave it back to ...

NEWS

New lighting for Florence’s monuments

The bronze David at piazzale Michelangelo, the Badia Fiorentina bell tower and the facade of the Basilica of Santa Maria Novella all now boast new permanent lighting. The update was ...

THINGS TO DO

If Dante were here now: a self-guided tour of Florence

Retracing Dante’s steps means setting off on a unique journey into the art, history, culture and spirituality of Florence in the mid-1300s. In this self-guided tour of Dante’s Florence, we ...

ART + CULTURE

Pietro Lorenzetti Arezzo altarpiece restored to glory

Back in May 2016, I wrote an article for this newspaper about the restoration of Pietro Lorenzetti’s Arezzo altarpiece from 1320 by RICERCA Restauro, a group of three women who ...

ART + CULTURE

Permanence, functionality and delight in Florentine architecture

When thinking about three iconic Florentine buildings that best exemplify its architecture, these words come to mind, which were used by the ancient Roman architect Vitruvius to set the standard ...

ART + CULTURE

Other bridges are available

Venice has the Rialto, Florence has the Ponte Vecchio. The bridge that famously survived the war is surely the sight most snapped in all the city. Yet perversely, of the ...

NEWS

Ramps revamped

The restoration of Giuseppe Poggi's ramps, which began in July 2018, proved to be one of the most complicated in the last 50 years in Florence.

ART + CULTURE

A step inside the Antico Setificio Fiorentino

The easiest mistake to make when first setting foot in the Antico Setificio Fiorentino, Florence’s only surviving silk mill, is equating it with a museum, or any place that exists ...

ART + CULTURE

“My beautiful San Giovanni”: Florence Baptistery

In his ‘Divine Comedy’, Dante described the building as “my beautiful San Giovanni,” yet he was not the only famous Florentine to be baptised here.

ART + CULTURE

The Russian church

You are approaching the Russian church when you glimpse one central onion-shaped dome and four smaller ones with turquoise, green and white majolica.

ART + CULTURE

The National Central Library: after the flood

When Italian president Giuseppe Saragat arrived at Florence’s National Central Library in the wake of the 1966 flood, it is reported that the Biblioteca’s director Emanuele Casamassima did not mince ...

ART + CULTURE

Happy Birthday Italy

On June 2, 2016, Italy celebrates the birth of the Italian Republic seven decades ago. After 85 years under the Savoy monarchy, which had supported Mussolini’s fascist regime that led ...

ART + CULTURE

The Duomo clock

The clock above the main door inside the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, or the Duomo, as it is better known in Florence, is the only one of its ...

ART + CULTURE

The Florentine diamond

Every gem has its own history, but some have a fascinating story, often involving mystery and mayhem. This is certainly true of a diamond that found its way to Europe in the 15th century. Of Indian origin, the very large almond-shaped stone was pale yellow with hints of green.

ART + CULTURE

The singing Orpheus fountain

After living in Florence for a certain amount of time it is easy to become a little blasé, thinking you’ve seen and done it all. What a mistake! Just when you least expect it, you stumble on a gem that has been right under your nose for

ART + CULTURE

The Virgin Mary’s belt

There is much more to Prato, a town about 10 kilometres north of Florence, than its textile industry, almond biscuits and modern art museum. For instance, at 6 pm each Christmas Day, it is the site of one of Italy's most unusual religious ceremonies. The main cathedral, which is

THINGS TO DO

The palio

Summer in Siena means the Palio a famed historic horse race run each year on July 2 and Aug. 16.  The Palio tradition dates back to the 11th cen-tury, when the race was initiated to honor the Madonna dellAssunta, patroness and advocate of Siena, for her protection of

ART + CULTURE

Weaving In and Out

‘Mediterranean weaving—fabric as a dictionary of economic, cultural and social relations.’ This rather ponderous title introduces a fascinating exhibition at the Museo del Tessuto in Prato comparing the different textile ...

THINGS TO DO

Peace, Politics, and Paper-mache

Most people are familiar with the masked revellers at the Carnevale in Venice, but another truly fantastic celebration ofCarneVa (literally meaning the “meat goes”) is held each year in the Tuscan coastal city of Viareggio. Here the stars of the show are the spectacular papier-mâch&

THINGS TO DO

Venice unmasked

I got lost on my last trip to Venice.  It makes no difference that it was my twentieth trip to La Serenissima in half as many years, or that I can, on a very good day, navigate its infinite bridges and narrow calli without a second thought.  During

THINGS TO DO

Good Swill Hunting

Proverbial wisdom about early birds catching worms doesn’t apply to boar. I am used to fox hunting in the US, where you have to be ready to go at dawn. Not so with boar hunting; at nine am the hunters were just starting to arrive.    The

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